Angkor tour guides help locals rediscover heritage

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Cambodia is receiving a slow but encouraging increase in visitors, with the lifting of international travel restrictions following the COVID-19 pandemic.

With foreign arrival numbers yet to rebound to pre-pandemic heights, local tourism has unexpectedly become a lifeline.

The scene at the famous Angkor Wat temple site has been transformed, with busy guides and their domestic visitors forming a new alliance and breathing new life into the appreciation of Cambodia's rich historical tapestry.

READ MORE: 'Temple Run' trend takes Cambodian tourism by storm

Meas Sovannaroth, a tour guide based in Siem Reap, found himself exploring different career paths after the pandemic brought the tourism industry shuddering to a stop.

He ventured into real estate and the sale of agricultural machinery, but his passion for sharing his knowledge never waned — in 2022, as visitors began to trickle back, he returned to his roots and reconnected with the heritage he loves.

Sovannaroth now balances his tour guiding work with a part-time job as a driver for ride-hailing platform Grab, allowing him to support his family while he waits for tourism to complete its slow comeback.

"The enthusiasm in November has been encouraging," he said. "We've seen a revival in interest for Angkor Wat and other temples, providing some stability after several challenging years."

The surge in local interest has proved beneficial to both guides and Cambodian visitors.

After many years, when historical attractions were primarily frequented by international guests, domestic tourists are becoming increasingly captivated by the kingdom's rich past.

Kea Simon, a guide with 17 years of experience, said he has observed a newfound curiosity among Cambodians.

"Many local guests now want to understand the stories behind our temple sculptures," he said.

"They're interested in our history, culture and architectural heritage… deepening their connection to these sites."

Simon said that when he meets local tourists in front of the temple, he does not discuss prices in advance as it often depends on their interest and intent.

He said that most guides do not focus on discussing guide fees, with the opportunity to work and share knowledge with Cambodian guests more important.

The duration of each tour also depends on each temple's location at the site — larger temples need more detailed explanations, while smaller ones often require a shorter introduction. Simon said that in the past, it was rare for Cambodian visitors to hire a guide due to limited interest in history and budget constraints.

However, since 2022, following the COVID-19 challenges, domestic tourists appear to have become more interested in the history, culture, architecture, religion and art of the temples.

"They are now part of preserving our culture by wanting to learn more about the temples," he said. "If they only came to take photos, they wouldn't understand the true depth of it, no matter how much they read in books."

Simon also acknowledged that beyond sharing knowledge, the increase in local tourists also helps sustain the tour guiding profession.

"Usually, when I'm stationed at the Bayon temple, after about an hour of guiding local visitors, they give me between 50,000 riel ($12.30) to 60,000 riel," he told The Phnom Penh Post.

"Some guests even offer up to $20 or $30," he added.

Cultural pride

Cambodian tourists are increasingly filling the gaps in the industry and fueling its growth, thanks to their growing historical curiosity and national pride.

The director of the Siem Reap Provincial Department of Tourism, Thim Sereyvuth, highlighted the importance of educating young residents about their heritage.

"Guides now offer tours to local students, enhancing a deeper understanding of real history, including topics like the monarchy, Brahmanism, Buddhism, temple styles, architecture, mythology and the various wars that are depicted in the engravings of each temple," Sereyvuth said.

This means more Cambodians are learning to understand and appreciate their culture more deeply, he said.

While the number of tourists remains modest, tour guides are now focusing on local visitors, with many of them helping the profession survive and thrive.

The situation has allowed guides and visitors to benefit from each other. Visitors who previously were not interested in the historical narratives are now gaining a deeper understanding of temple sculptures, while the guides can continue in their work.

Khieu Thy, president of the Angkor Tour Guide Association, which has over 200 members, said he is unsure if the uptick in domestic clients will be enough.

"I hope our tourism sector can grow again, but there's an overly optimistic analysis predicting that 2025 will match 2019 levels. Obviously, 2025 is just around the corner, and there's no clear sign of such an increase," he said.

"About 50 guides sit in front of Angkor without any earnings, yet they're willing to do this despite knowing it's unprofessional and inappropriate."

Their goal is to attract both national and international visitors as a group, Thy said.

Thy acknowledged the challenges in the current situation, pointing to a "high season" that felt more like the off-season.

"October was a disappointment, with demand falling short of expectations," Thy said.

"Only November showed a significant uptick in reservations. The upcoming months are unpredictable, leaving guides facing limited work opportunities."

In comparison to last year, when guides could find work for 20 days a month, they now average just 12, with many stationed at the temples daily to attract tourists.

Another indicator of the downturn, Thy said, is how Old Market area businesses like restaurants, hotels and guesthouses are seeing fewer visitors than last year.

With fewer reservations, guides are facing a tough market and must go out on their own to find guests at the temples.

"The number of guides has been declining since COVID-19, with some changing careers. A group of our guides now stands in front of Angkor, inviting both foreign and Khmer visitors to use their services as much as possible," Thy said.

Cambodia's tourism sector, which once contributed significantly to the national GDP, faced a massive downturn when the pandemic hit.

In 2019, international tourist arrivals exceeded 6.6 million but by 2021 the number had plummeted to under 200,000 due to travel restrictions and global health concerns.

The resulting closures of hotels, restaurants and other tourism and hospitality businesses affected thousands of jobs, forcing guides like Sovannaroth, Thy and Simon to find alternate sources of income.

The sector began to bounce back in 2023 as travel resumed, drawing international tourists back to iconic locations like Angkor Wat.

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A report from the Ministry of Tourism said there was a 32 percent increase in international arrivals in early 2024 compared to the previous year.

"The Kingdom of Wonder" campaign, alongside Cambodia's new visa policies, has successfully highlighted the country as a secure and culturally enriching destination, appealing to tourists worldwide, according to the ministry.

The recent opening of the Siem Reap-Angkor International Airport has further boosted tourism in the region, it added.

Within its first year, the airport managed over 1.3 million passengers, improving accessibility to sites beyond the well-trodden paths.

This, combined with increased infrastructure and new accommodation options, has made Siem Reap more attractive to both foreign and local visitors, according to latest industry figures.