Climbers rush for Qomolangma permits before fees go up

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The number of climbing permits for Qomolangma, or Mount Everest in the West, have already surpassed 120 in the first week of April — twice as fast as last year — indicating the potential for another record-breaking season on the world's tallest peak.

This will be the last spring climbing season under the existing regulations.

Leeladhar Awasthi, director at Nepal's Department of Tourism, the government body responsible for issuing climbing permits, confirmed that 120 individuals have been granted Everest climbing permits as of April 8, generating 180 million Nepalese rupees ($1.3 million) in revenue.

Of these climbers, 95 are men and 25 women.

"It's a good start," said Awasthi.

READ MORE: Nepal hikes climbing fees for highest peak

In 2024, the department issued 421 climbing permits, a decline from 479 the previous year.

Around 200 climbers reached the summit last year, supported by more than 600 climbing guides.

This spring, operators anticipate an even busier season on the 8,848.86-meter peak.

Mingma Sherpa, managing director of Seven Summit Treks, the largest expedition agency in Nepal, said they have already confirmed bookings from 100 climbers. However, Seven Summit Treks has yet to apply for permit applications on behalf of the climbers.

"Based on bookings from other major operators and our own company, we are expecting more than 500 Everest aspirants this season."

Operators say upcoming changes in mountaineering regulations, set to take effect on September 1, have contributed to the surge in interest.

One of the most significant changes is the increase in the Everest climbing fee, which will rise by $4,000 to $15,000 per person starting in September.

The government has also raised the daily allowances for liaison officers, wages for high-altitude guides, and salaries for base camp workers, all of which must be borne by climbers.

Daily wages for liaison officers will more than triple, increasing from 500 Nepalese rupees to 1,600 Nepalese rupees. Sirdars, or lead Sherpas, will now earn 1,500 Nepalese rupees per day, up from 500 Nepalese rupees. Similarly, the high-altitude guides have will now make 1,200 Nepalese rupees a day, up from 350 Nepalese rupees, and base camp workers' wages have been increased from 300 Nepalese rupees to 1,000 Nepalese rupees.

Insurance coverage for high-altitude guides has been raised to 2 million Nepalese rupees from 1.5 million Nepalese rupees, and for base camp workers to 1.5 million Nepalese rupees from 800,000 Nepalese rupees.

Under the revised rules, solo expeditions will no longer be allowed, and each pair of climbers ascending peaks above 8,000 meters — including Everest — must be accompanied by at least one guide. For other mountains, at least one guide per group will be mandatory.

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, also known as Mingma G, the managing director of Imagine Nepal Trek and Expeditions, said the new charges may increase the total cost of an Everest expedition package in the range of $7,000 to $10,000.

The average package, currently around $40,000, could rise to $50,000, while elite climbers may end up paying close to $100,000.

Preparations for the season are already underway. Icefall doctors — specialist high-altitude guides responsible for fixing ropes and ladders along the climbing route up to Camp II — have been mobilized. Climbing is expected to begin early next month.

Dambar Parajuli, president of the Expedition Operator's Association of Nepal, is optimistic about the season.

"Given the ongoing issuance of climbing permits, we expect a better-than-expected season," he said. However, he noted that high airfare remains a limiting factor.

But he believes the rising costs will not discourage serious climbers. "A climber who has been preparing for a year might delay the climb by a year or two, but Everest's allure is timeless, regardless of expense," said Parajuli.

Beyond government regulations, the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee, or SPCC, which oversees waste management in the Khumbu region, has implemented additional measures starting from the spring climbing season.

Each climber is now required to pay a $600 deposit for the Khumbu Icefall Route fee.

Waste segregation is mandatory at the base camp and higher-altitude camps, with waste sorted into different categories: plastics, paper and cardboard, tin and cans, glass bottles, kitchen waste, batteries and medical waste, and human waste.

Toilet tents are no longer allowed over crevasses at Camp II, and expedition operators must remove all their equipment after the climb.

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In spring 2024, the SPCC collected 77 metric tons of waste from Everest Base Camp, with another 9 tons brought down from higher camps by expedition teams, bringing the total to 88 tons.

Of this, 27.99 tons were burnable garbage, 7.51 tons recyclable, 27.53 tons human waste, and 14.15 tons kitchen waste. The Nepal Army assisted by hauling down 11 tons.

This year, Nepal will deploy heavy-lift drones to airlift garbage from Everest, marking the first commercial use of unmanned aerial vehicles in the country's high-altitude regions.

In addition, the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality has introduced a rule requiring climbers to carry personal "poop bags" during their ascent.

Since 1953, nearly 8,900 people have summited the world's highest peak from the Nepal side.