Historical, cultural characteristics maintained; temple murals become a major attraction
Moshikou resident An Licheng, 79, remembers well the sound of camel bells ringing as the pack animals traversed the mountain pass in Beijing's western region making their way to the city's downtown.
He said when he was a youngster he could hear the bells sounding from as early as 4 am.
"There was only one road to cross from the western Mentougou district to downtown Beijing, with a large mountain pass on the west side of the road," said An.
"The camel team, which included at least five and up to seven camels, walked across the road to carry coal or groceries to the city's downtown, and returned in the afternoon at around 3 or 4 pm.
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"Those camels didn't stop to rest. Their endurance was strong, and they only stopped to drink water from a well in the middle of our village to replenish their strength."
Located in Shijingshan district, what today is officially known as Moshikou Historical and Cultural Block, has seen a large influx of visitors over the past two years due to its renovation. The block was recently chosen as part of the fourth group of national-level tourist spots by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism.
Early last century, Moshikou was characterized by muddy roads and irregularly placed power poles. Over the decades, it has undergone a modernization process, but maintained its cultural traditions and characteristics.
A century of change
During the Ming and Qing dynasties (1368-1911), Moshikou was a prosperous area. As wine shops and inns flourished to cater to camel caravans passing along what was called the "Camel Bell Ancient Road".
The block's historical connection to camels is depicted in the classic novel Camel Xiangzi by renowned novelist Lao She, which captured the everyday life of Beijing residents in the late 1920s.
The modern development of Moshikou began in 1922 when it became the first village in Beijing to have electricity.
A year later, to reflect the progress brought by electrification and other advances, the meaning of the name of the village was changed from "millstone" to "model", with both having the same Chinese pronunciation.
Moshikou, "the model of all villages", has been used ever since.
Despite the changes, An remembers the vital role camels played carrying loads weighing up to 350 kilograms of goods.
"At that time, when it rained, the dirt road turned muddy and the carriages could not pass through, so they could only rely on camels for transport," he said. "Later, as the road improved and more carriages appeared, the camels were gradually phased out."
An's family has been in Moshikou for three generations. He currently lives with four family members in a house covering about 300 square meters, half of which is leased for commercial use.
"I'm glad that the street has taken on a new look, and the change has been obvious," he said. The stores and shops, as well as the walls on both sides of the street, have undergone a major face-lift, with some of the houses retaining their original appearance, he said.
New food shops have popped up, attracting locals and visitors from the surrounding area to sample their dishes.
Before the changes, the street was a hive of activity, with stalls selling pork, Chinese chives and snacks, said An. "I especially liked the tofu made with water from the deep mountain spring," he said.
Since the renovation, the whole atmosphere of the street has improved and the food offerings have changed. An said he had tried two new food offerings and preferred the pancakes he sampled to a dish that was popular with visitors.
Preserving the past
Zheng Tengfei is manager of Gudao Sicun, a courtyard that has a folk culture exhibition, displays and a cafe that highlights the attractions of the ancient trail. When visitors enter the venue they can refer to a copper cast map that takes them to exhibition halls and leads them to explore the displays on their own.
The property was a grain store during the planned economy era from 1949 to 1978, then a pharmacy, and a Taoist temple, before finally being renovated into the courtyard.
Zheng, 34, a native of Fengtai district, in Beijing, said that he hadn't intended to open a cafe in Shijingshan, particularly during the pandemic. However, when a friend told him about the Moshikou area's upgrade and the popularity of outdoor activities there, he changed his mind.
"We didn't plan for the coffee shop to be a standard, commercial urban cafe, and admittedly we couldn't produce that large quantity of coffee per day," said Zheng. "At most, we are able to sell about 300 cups of coffee per day, and on weekends, around 200 cups a day. On weekdays, we sell only about 80 to 100 cups.
"But after the major face-lift and the overall upgrade of Moshikou, and I was part of it, I believe the area is aesthetically different now," he added.
Zhang Hao is planning and design manager for the Moshikou renewal project. Starting in 2020, the Shijingshan district government began the transformation of the area, focusing on preserving its cultural heritage, enhancing residents' living environment and diversifying businesses.
"There are lots of residential courtyards on both sides of Moshikou Street, and our primary goal is to add more modern elements to the area while maintaining the original style of the neighborhood," he said.
"We didn't want to create a uniform old neighborhood, but an area that can reflect the changes of time and even leave contemporary memories," he added.
On the east side of Moshikou Street, Jingxi Shuju bookstore offers an ideal place for visitors to read and socialize. The bookstore's sloping green tile roof, bridge-like wooden structure and a large glass curtain form an inviting interior.
Zuo Yan, manager of the state-owned bookstore, said that the store structure had integrated an underground water pump house and the district's transformer substation. While these facilities are not immediately apparent to visitors, they provide a space that incorporates modern elements.
"It's become a must-see place for tourists visiting Moshikou," said Zuo. "Our bestselling books are historical and cultural ones, covering the history and folklore of western Beijing, especially on our street."
Lao She's books also sell well, she added.
Zuo said that the premises also host book-sharing sessions that feature cultural and creative products, as well as displaying artistic works related to Fahai Temple.
Temple attractions
Moshikou is home to Fahai Temple and its exquisite murals from the Ming Dynasty, which are a highlight of the cultural richness and history of the area.
The temple is located on the northern side of Moshikou block and was listed as a national key cultural heritage site in 1988. It has been preserved for centuries as a niche spot in western Beijing that was once part of the Ancient Camel Road.
Built in 1439 during the Ming Dynasty, the temple was founded by Li Tong, an imperial eunuch. Around 169 painters and craftsmen participated in the construction of the temple and the painting of the murals, a project that spanned over four years.
Fifteen court painters created 10 of the temple's murals, covering an area of 236.7 square meters and featuring 77 meticulously hand-drawn figures.
Compared with the Palace Museum or the Summer Palace, Fahai Temple is a less popular destination for tourists visiting Beijing. However, the murals that it housed for over 500 years, are hidden gems that are now attracting more visitors from home and abroad.
Shen Yayun, 34, from Shenzhen, Guangdong province, has visited the temple twice in four years to appreciate its murals.
She said she is impressed by the fine details and extraordinary painting skills that brought almost everything on the walls to life, from flowers and grass to the eyes of mythical creatures and the attire of Buddha.
"To better protect the murals, they are kept in darkness in the main hall of Fahai Temple," she said. "Only when tourists visit are flashlights shone to allow them to appreciate the large murals, adding more mystery to their artistic charm."
Docents who guide the tour have a special flashlight that illuminates the murals in a yellowish glow that makes them look different, Shen said, adding it was a "mind-blowing" experience.
The names of the court painters are engraved on a Buddhist stone pillar in front of the temple, which is still well preserved at an exhibition hall in the temple courtyard. The tomb of Li Tong, the founder of Fahai Temple, is located to the right of the temple gate.
Sense of calm
Observing the murals of Fahai Temple is more than just a tourist experience, as they convey spiritual aspects of Buddhism. The giant Buddhas and Bodhisattvas, nearly 2 meters tall, stand with dignified and benevolent faces, their robes adorned with intricate patterns traced in gold.
"The brush strokes, smooth, free and soft, combined with the delicate and complete depiction, conveyed to me a peaceful Buddhist world, and a sense of calm," said Shen.
Angela Latham, a British journalist who explored Fahai Temple early last century, was amazed by the preserved Ming dynasty murals. "The vastness of the intricately-woven composition, its grace and dignity, seem the work of some divine artist," Latham wrote in an article published in the Illustrated London News in February 1937.
She described the Bodhisattvas she saw as "so beautiful that I have never seen any paintings as noble and as charming".
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Latham wrote that the "distinguished people" so admirably attending the Buddha on the walls of Fahai Temple are "a gathering of immortals".
In 2023, Fahai Temple Mural Art Center was opened, showcasing the fine details and motifs of the frescoes with digital technology. The practice of copying the frescoes inside the temple has also gained popularity among visitors.
Fresco-copying events are also held at Jingxi Shuju bookstore. Zuo, the manager, said that in the past two years, most of the visitors from Beijing had got to know Fahai Temple and its murals.
"The development of the area and the preservation of the cultural relics site should complement each other, and I believe that is the goal," she said.
"In the future, as more tourists come, the reputation of Fahai Temple, Moshikou, as well as our bookstore will grow."
